Kawakawa and a few foraging tips

A gentle introduction to one of Aotearoa's most treasured native plants, and how to gather it well.

A plant you can recognise by its holes

Walk into almost any lowland forest in the North Island, or the warmer coastal pockets of the top of the South, and sooner or later you'll spot a shrub with glossy, heart-shaped leaves, jointed stems, and leaves that look like someone has been at them with a hole punch. That's kawakawa (Piper excelsum), a close relative of the pepper plant, and one of the most culturally significant plants in Aotearoa New Zealand.

Those holes aren't a sign of a sick plant. They're the work of the kawakawa looper caterpillar, which feeds on almost nothing else. Traditionally, many people prefer to gather these nibbled leaves, and the plant's relationship with its insect partner is part of what makes it so interesting.

Kawakawa in rongoā Māori

Kawakawa has long held an important place in rongoā Māori, traditional Māori healing. It's used in many preparations, including infusions and balms, and the leaves also carry symbolic weight: kawakawa is associated with healing, protection and remembrance, and sprigs are worn or carried in a number of

ceremonial settings.

What does it taste like?

If you've never tried it, kawakawa tea is a surprise. The flavour is warm, peppery and slightly numbing on the tongue, with a green, herbal edge. A common way to enjoy it is simply to:

1.     Rinse two or three leaves (fresh or dried).

2.     Tear them into a cup or teapot.

3.     Cover with just-boiled water and steep for five to ten minutes.

4.     Sip it plain, or add a little honey or a slice of lemon.

The leaves are also dried and used in seasoning blends and teas, infused into oils and made into balms. Start small. It's a strong-tasting plant, and a little goes a long way. A little goes along way.

Foraging well: the ground rules

Foraging is as much about restraint and respect as it is about finding something delicious. A few principles worth following:

Be certain of your identification. Kawakawa's heart-shaped leaves, prominent veins and distinctive jointed stems (the nodes look like small knuckles) are quite recognisable, but never eat any plant you aren't sure about. If in doubt, go with someone experienced, or leave it.

Take only what you need. Pick a few leaves from a healthy, established plant, never strip it, and never take the growing tips or rip branches. A good rule of thumb is to leave the plant looking as though no one had been there.

Choose clean spots. Avoid roadsides, spray zones, dog-walking tracks and anywhere that might have been treated with herbicide. Kawakawa near a busy road is not a plant you want to put in your mouth.

Leave the habitat alone. Forest floors are fragile. Stay on tracks where you can, and be mindful of kauri dieback: clean and dry your shoes at any cleaning stations, and respect rāhui and track closures.

Growing your own. The most sustainable way to enjoy kawakawa is to plant some. It grows well in sheltered, semi-shaded spots with moist, free-draining soil, and it's frost-tender, so protect young plants from cold and strong wind. It also does well in a large pot on a sheltered patio. A bonus: you'll probably attract the looper caterpillars, and you'll get your own holey leaves.

A note of caution.Natural doesn't automatically mean harmless. Kawakawa is generally enjoyed as a tea or topical balm, but if you're pregnant, breastfeeding, on medication, or have a health condition, check with your doctor or pharmacist before using it regularly. Also, try a small amount first to see how your body responds.

The takeaway.Good foraging is a conversation with a place: you notice, you learn, you take only what you need, and you give something back. Kawakawa is a wonderful plant to start that conversation with: easy to recognise, rich in cultural meaning, and delicious in a humble cup of tea. Treat it with respect, and it will reward your curiosity for a very long time.

Kia atawhai ki te whenua, be kind to the land.